21^st. May ( Home to NJP)

Finally the day had come. We started our journey towards Sealdah railway station to catch the NJP bound Darjeeling mail. Though initially we were six to start but finally it came down to only Three. Me, my wife and Bapi, my Friend. Except me, the other two will try their first ever trek and me again with only one trek experience. I did lots of study about the trek nature and finally decided to give it a try. The journey was uneventful and thanks God……we reached NJP in time next day.

Mimi

Bapi

Me

22^nd May --- NJP to Yuksam

As we were short of members I booked one jeep for Yuksam earlier which was waiting at the station. We soon took our seats and the journey began. Midway we completed the marketing of vegetables at Jorethang and also had our Lunch there. Finally we reached Yuksam and it started raining. We booked one Three bed room at Hotel Demazong. As we were taking our tea our guide came and enquired about the food stuffs. Some final few things were completed and we planned the final fixture of the trek. My intention was not to rush but enjoy….so we kept 9 days for the entire trek. All done, we had our dinner. My fellow trekkers were really excited. We went to our bed with the nature drizzling outside.

23^rd May (Day 1)---------- Yuksam to Sachen

We woke up just to find it was raining all through. We were to take the decision whether to start the trek or wait for the day. After some discussion we finally made our mind to start. The yakman came with his yaks and porter also arrived in time.

1st Bridge over Paha Khola

After having heavy breakfast we started the trek completely covered with rain coat. It took long time to complete the formalities at two check posts before the actual trek began. Soon the trail started to take steep slope as we were getting nearer towards the first of four hanging bridges. Weather was really poor. Everything was so damp that we were pondering how to dry the things. Muddy and slushy trail was full of leeches which were ready to find their opportunities and succeeded several times.

2nd & Damaged bridge over Monn Khola

Finally we crossed Three bridges to reach a place called Sachen. These bridges are on Three small streams….Paha Khola, Monn Khola and Susea Khola. As the rain peaked up its speed our guide decided to camp for the day. It was Really difficult to find a place in the damp & muddy camping ground. The tent was  eventually pitched at a small camping ground. We changed our damp cloths to become ready for the lunch. Finally the weather got a little better and we started discussing the experience of the first day trek. As we were gossiping it became darker outside. Just after completing our dinner we discovered a clear sky. Satisfied I went inside our tent. Out came the sleeping bag and we greeted good night to each other.

Our Tent Camp at Sachen

24^th. May (Day 2)---------- Sachen - Bakhim - Tsoka

It was a comparatively bright morning to greet us. Rain has subsided and we soon became ready for our trek. Today our planning is to reach Tsoka. This is the last village in the entire route.

4TH Bridge over Prek Chu

As we started the trail gradually descended towards the Prek Chu river where we had to cross the fourth & Longest bridge. After that it was all climb. The really steep trail requires some strength of knees to take us to Bakhim. We took a half an hour rest there before starting the final 2 Km journey towards Tsoka (choka).

Trail to Tsoka leaving Bakhim

Around 12.30 PM we reached the place and booked one room at Trekkers Hut.  Tsoka is a small village of Tibetan refugee and also the last one towards Dzongri and further up. After hot lunch we managed some time to enjoy the village before clouds came again. Just we were finishing our dinner it started raining again and continued till we went to our bed. 




25^th. May (Day 3)--------- Tsoka - Phedong - Dzongri

Tsoka Village amidst dense fog

We woke up around 5 AM in the morning and to our great surprise we found an amazingly clear weather. Scattered clouds were sailing in the blue sky. Far distance from Tsoka, Mount Pandim was visible with mount Tenzingkhang. We spent sometime under the bright sun shine before the breakfast was served. We soon got prepared for a longer day trek. Our destination was Dzongri. 

Tsoka Monastery with small lake

Distant Mountain Range with Chorten (Prayer Flag) in front

Mount Pandim & Mount Tenzingkhang from Tsoka

The trail for fist few kilometers was relatively easy and very well maintained by wooden blocks.

Initial Trail to Dzongri

But it was gradually becoming steeper and few kilometers before Phedong it became rough, full of boulders and sllepery due to heavy overnight rain. We took nearly three hours to reach Phedong and took a long rest. Meanwhile our support staffs started cooking our lunch.

Just we were about to complete our lunch rain started accompanied by chill wind. Out came our rain coat and the rain soon transformed to hail storm. We waited for few more minutes to allow time to the rain to reduce which happened eventually. 

Fog Creating a Mystique Atmosphere 

But it continued to drizzle as we went on climbing the trek trail. Gradually it became tougher to walk and lake of oxygen with the gain of altitude made us huffing & puffing. Suddenly it started snowing and we were trembling in severe cold with our extremely damp clothes. Mimi peaked up a headache and Bapi had some frozen finger and me with a real tensed mind thinking about the possibility of being stuck midway.

Eventually, we made it to Deorali Dhar Top. From there Dzongri is mostly flat walk with occasional ups & downs. We performed some worships at the holy point of the top praying the rain god for some blessings and started to move. By half an hour we reached Dzongri. And the disaster…….the trekkers hut was full by HMI trainees. The camping ground was not in good shape to pitch the tent. Our guide solved the problem by managing a small room of a shop and we soon started changing our damp outfits.

Mountain range during Sunset from Dzongri

During afternoon the rain stopped and the Sun came out for a while. We went outside to cultivate the Dzongri Vally. Dzongri is known as The Meeting place of Man and Mountain God. The entire valley was covered with rhododendron flowers. The yellow, red, pink, white with their different blending created a really colourful spectrum. We climbed a few hundred meters towards a certain spot from where Black Kabru was visible with a real close proximity. The Black Kabru though looked white with the continuous snowfall.

Yellow Rhododendron

Black Kabru......So very close

  After sunset it became really cold outside and soon we came down and enjoyed some Pokura inside our tinny little room. We three were in satisfied mood………afterall we have been able to reach Dzongri with no such Trek experience. Dinner was served around 7.30 PM and we went inside our sleeping bag. 

26^th. May (Day 4) Dzongri -- Dzongri Top -- Kokchurang --- Thansing

My alarm clock woke me up at 3 AM and I found Sanman already preparing tea for us. Soon we all got prepared to hike upto Dzongri Top which is nearly 1000 ft higher from the Dzongri meadow. It was cold and my thermometer read it 3 degree. We went out with our head torch. Unfortunately it was not such a clear night. Clouds covered the moon and the stars which made the surroundings much darker. It was a real steep climb and took almost an hour to reach the top. 

Trail to Dzongri Top

As we are climbing the natural twilight made the surroundings visible.

 We enjoyed the peaks from the top. Mount Pandim was the most prominent one along with Kabru family. Unfortunately the Kanchenjunga Range was completely covered with clouds. Partially satisfied, we descended and soon had our breakfast. We would try to reach Tnasing today.

Mount Pandim from Dzongri Top

Soon after beginning we came at the top of a ridge. After crossing a green meadow the prek chu again came to our sight. But that scene made us awestruck. The river was flowing 3000 ft below but the trail distance was just 2 KM. This information is enough to some up how sharp descend we had to negotiate.

See the River line 3000 Ft Below

The Great Descend in rain

The situation worsened with the rain started again. Muddy sleepery trail with this gradient took two and half hours and an heavy toll to our knees as we finally reached the river bed at Kokchurang. Completely tired & exhausted we took our lunch.

The rain peaked up. But we decided to give it a go. Next two and half hours was indescribable. Rain continued, we got counting our steps, rain coat was licking, and somehow we dragged our body to Thansing Trekkers Hut.

Sanman provided us hot soup, chicken and some vajji and we rejuvenated ourselves in due course of time.

As we got inside our sleeping bag it continued to rain al through. 

27^th May, (Day 5) Thansing --- Lamuney --- Thansing

As usual I woke up early and soon came out of the room. To my great surprise I found mount pandim just in front of me….standing tall and gorgeous. Bright sunshine was flooding the vast green meadow of Thansing. Sanman took me to Thansing top from where I seemed I can touch Pandim with my hands.

Mount Pandim from Thansing

Great South - East Wall of Mount Kanchenjunga

The great south-east wall of mount Kanchenjunga was showing its glory. As I came down I found my companions enjoying the sun looking at Pandim. Leisurely we took our breakfast. Today we have to walk only 4 Kms upto Lamuney and that too is mainly through the meadow. We will gain an altitude of just 900ft today……..a cake walk…………..But……Man Proposes……..GOD Disposes.

Sanman - standing at Thansing Meadow

The trek from Thansing to Lamuney was by far the best. Pandim on our right & Kanchenjunga in front was always with us. During the trek Mimi peaked up minor headache. We reached lamuney within 2 hrs and enjoyed the valley. 

Reaching Lamuney

We had some tea followed by some hot lunch. After lunch cloud covered the whole meadow and suddenly Mimi peaked up some severe headache. It continued for some time and other symtoms of altitude sickness like breathlessness at rest, vomiting tendency were visible. I was a bit surprised that she peaked up this even after spending 5 full days at mountains and more than that THRE full days over 13000ft. and we followed the other thumb rules of avoiding it.

Bapi - Crossing a Stream

Even Bapi was not feeling 100% fit. We three were the only sole at Lamuney. Though Sanman insisted us to stay and assured that they would be ok within sometime we decided to came down to Thansing. We started to descend and reached Thansing by 2 hrs and magically they became absolutely fit. I was little bit morose for not having completing the entire trail. Suddenly Sanman asked me to try Goechala……….starting at 12 midnight. “Bara baje suru korne se hamm sube sube pouch jaunga” he said…….which means if we start at 12 midnight we can reach goechala by early morning. Taking the permission of my team I decided to give it a try. I became joyful again and went to bed around 6.45PM.

 

28^th.May, (Day 6) Thansing -- Lamuney -- Samiti -- Goechala -- Thansing -- Kokcurang

As planned I woke up at 15 to 12 and Sanman was preparing our breakfast. I was amazed to find his tenacity but more than that his sincerity and commitment. We two had some tea, have the wish of my team members and went out. It was 12.30 at night…….severe cold made me trembling and I started to walk quickly to keep myself warm. Me and Sanman were the only two man that day attempting Goechala. We spoke to each other and managed to reach Lamuney by 2.15 PM. After a well deserved rest at makeshift tent at Lamuney we began our final stretch. My head lamp was becoming dim as we reached Samiti Lake but was compensated by mild daylight. 

Trail to Goechala

Snow becoming thick & trail becoming slippery

Rathong Glacier with glimpses of Talung Glacier

As I was gaining hight my speed was reducing. We were nearly at 15000ft and snow was all around. I had to take several stoppage by with constant encouragement fro Sanman I managed to reach the first view point around 5.30 AM. Kanchenjuga alluded me once again……..clouds were alaround…..but I got the view of Tenzingkhang, Goecha Peak, Talung Glacier which satisfied my sole. 

Mount Tenzingkhang

Trail to final Goechala --- not possible without Ice Axe due to heavy overnight snow

Kanchenjuga covered under clouds

Always smiling Sanman Subba

ME-- Satisfied

Talung Peak

From First view point to the final one was another 4km journey which we could not make.

Tricky Descend from Goecha la

The really narrow trail was covered with snow which made it life threatening. In some portion to trail was even visible and just a sleep of few inches would cost a fall of several thousand feet. The weather also changed and started snowing mildly. So sanmam made up his mind to descend quickly. The trail around Zemathang was a real tricky one. Narrow trail of just 8 to 10 inches wide with snow scattered everywhere made the trek a difficult one. 

Samiti Lake

After having our breakfast there we started again and reached Samiti Lake. Spending some time there we offered our prayer and literally rushed to Thansing as we had to head back to Kokchurang today. I reached Thansing by 10 AM. My wife & friend were anxiously waiting for me. Then it was a story telling time and gathering energy for the rest of remaining walk towards Kokchurang.

After lunch we headed back to Kokchurang, enjoyed the time after the beautiful river until it got darker outside. And then we discovered us all alone inside that hugely large Trekkers Hut. Our support staffs were telling us some ghostly story regarding that Hut. Finally we went inside the sleeping bag with some uncanny feelings inside our inner being. 

29^th May, (Day 7) Kokchurang to Dzongri

After we woke up early in the morning I took an wild decision to climb up to Dzongri again. Most of the trekkers follow the conventional Kokcurang – Phedong - Tsoka route but since we did not get the view of Kanchenjunga we decided to climb another 3500 ft to Dzongi again. That was to me the most difficult climb of the entire trail as we climbed arou d 3000ft by just 2 KMs. That hike took our last bit of energy and our knees were not willing to go any further. Thankfully it was not raining. After a long rest we re-gathered ourselves to reach Dzongri during afternoon. Sanman again rescued our exhausted soles by some delicious snacks as we enjoyed time climbing a small ridgetop just opposite to the trekkers hut. 

Kokchurang Trekkers Hut

Mount Pandim from Kokchurang

30^th. May (Day 8)

It was 3 AM as my alarm clock woke me up and I was not surprised to find Sanman already ready with hot tea. My team members were not ready to hike to Dzongri Top so it was again a solo ride with Sanman. The immense hardship of previous day paid its full worth with the view of all possible peaks and I thanked the God for offering me such a beauty of Mountains.

Mount Pandim

Mount Sinialchu

Mount Narsing

Mount Jupnu

Mount Tenzingkhang

Kanchenjunga

Kanchenjunga after Sunrise

                                  

After  spending a couple of hour on the Dzongri Top i descended towards our Hut. Soon we had our breakfast and the descend towards Tsoka started. it happened to be a bright day as we reached Phedong for lunch. A steep descend from there took us to Tsoka. As we had time in our hand we decided to proceed further till Bakhim where we ended the day inside the tent.

Near Deurali Dhar Top

A small Bugial

We enjoyed the afternoon and celebrated the trek. After dinner a great surprise was waiting for us. Sanman produced a celebrating Cake which he prepared to memorize the successful trek. That opened a totally new dimension of the man ....his energy....his tenacity...his love.......and perhaps the great moment of the trek.

Celebration at Bakhim

The Team with the Cake

31st May, (Day 9)

The bright morning greeted us again followed by an uneventful long day. Again the dense forest......again the up & down trail......again the crossing of four bridges......lots of talk....finally it ended at yuksam......

Final Day Trail

Yuksum

Cheers

Now it is the time to say good bye as Sanjib & Ayeti left for their home. Sanman stayed with us to accompany us till Jorethang next day. Finally we parted at Yuksum.

Me, Bapi with Sanman at Jorethang

We are back to civilization now.........But the call of Himalaya........The memory of 10 days......together are calling me again.........again in future..........

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